To the Bright Edge of the World

“This excels all explorations on the American continent since the time of Lewis and Clark and the world’s record since Livingston,” said the general.

According to the report, carried south by wild Indians and then a mail steamer, Col. Forrester reached the mouth of the Wolverine River more than three months ago, and now follows the river deep into the heart of Alaska. Gen. Keirn says the Colonel and his party plan to cross to the head of a river called the Tanana and then on to the great northern Yukon River. After the nearly 1,000-mile journey to the coast, the party hopes to arrive at St. Michael’s on the Behrings and return via steamer to the United States.

An expedition up the Wolverine River has long been an ambition of brave explorers, even since before Alaska came into the possession of the United States, but the Russians failed each time it was attempted due to hostile Indians and unforgiving terrain. Since then, several explorations by American officers have ended in failure as well, until among Army officials the feat has come to be considered well-nigh impossible.

Col. Forrester is accompanied on his great journey by Lieut. Andrew Pruitt, of Madison, Wisc., and Sgt. Bradley Tillman, of Carbondale, Penn., but the party also relies on Alaska Indian scouts to assist in the expedition.





Lieut. Col. Allen Forrester

June 29, 1885

We were met this day by a scouting part of Tetling River Indians, as we near their village. They were not so surprised to see us as we might expect but instead greeted us warmly. We came to understand that they received advanced reports that we were traveling in their direction.

Happiest news of all, I learned they hold a letter for me that was delivered up the Yukon River by steamboat earlier this summer. I can only hope it is from Sophie. I am anxious to learn of her health and that of the baby.

June 30

Her letter leaves me to wonder, for whom do I write these pages?

July 1

We remain at the Tetling River, tributary of the Tanana. There are four Indian birch-bark houses here, with 35 men, assorted women, children, & dogs.

Many of the Indians are afflicted with severe coughs, other signs of illness, yet they endeavor towards hospitality. We stay at the chief’s house where we are given caribou meat. We eat, then sleep. Pruitt takes some food, has begun to come to his senses, though in the night he often cries out.

Tillman is the strongest of us, in body & spirit. I write here now only because Tillman woke me, helped me to a sitting position, put journal & pencil in my hands.

The day I received it, I crumpled her letter, threw it to the flames of the campfire. I regret it now. Have I misunderstood her words? If I could read it again, would I find something to soothe my anger?

July 2

Our plans to raft down to the Yukon are thwarted. The Indians say it is not possible because of rapids & deadfall, also that there is no salmon to be found in the upper Tanana River. We will need to construct skin boats.

July 3

Tillman & I traveled to a nearby village to secure caribou hides for use in making our boats.

The natives here are well-supplied with guns & ammunition from Fort Reliance. They wear dresses & shirts made of cotton. It seems that most if not all have been converted. Russian Catholic crosses decorate their graves.

When Tillman saw the graves, he made the sign of the cross, said he hopes it keeps the mountain spirits at bay. I had not known he was a religious man. It seems he was raised in the church, though he had fallen away from it.

?—?All that we’ve seen, Colonel, I figure it’s best to play it safe, he said.


Try as I might, I find nothing to comfort me.

July 4

Construction of the caribou baidarra is nearly finished.

Food is scarce even among Indians. In exchange for their dried arctic pickerel, sucker fish, grayling, whitefish, we have traded all our remaining money as well as any items we could spare?—?pocketknives, garments. Tillman even gave up his trousers in the trade, so is left only to his long underwear.

We have been told that once we reach the Yukon, we will be able to obtain provisions from either the trading post near the confluence with the Tanana or at the home of a missionary who lives in the area with his family.

The Indians warn us, however, to pass as silently as possible through the next stretch of river. It seems the nearby tyone is of a warlike disposition. They say it is likely that we will be killed if we are spotted by his people.


It is Independence Day. When it came to my notice this evening, I informed the men. Tillman insisted on building a bonfire. He then stood solemnly in his long underwear, shot several rounds into the air. We attempted to sing a verse or two of ‘My Country Tis of Thee.’ It was not a rousing performance. The Indians were unimpressed.

July 5

Eowyn Ivey's books