You’re on an island, so let’s start at the beach! Nantucket has fifty miles of coastline, most of it open to the public. Some of it has auto access but you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle with the proper sticker. For beaches such as Fortieth Pole and Smith’s Point, you need a town beach sticker, yours for $100 (you procure one of these at the police station—and hey, maybe you’ll see Chief Kapenash!). The sticker to access Great Point is purchased at the entry; it costs $160 (you can also get a day pass for $60). Most rental vehicles available on Nantucket come with these stickers. Before you drive onto the beach, you must let the air out of your tires down to 15 pounds (you can go lower for Great Point—there are two air hoses just past the guardhouse to refill them when you’re heading back to civilization).
Here are my thoughts on drive-on beaches: I love them. This love intensified when I had children. Instead of schlepping all of our stuff from whatever parking spot I happened to find (if I found a parking spot—because when you have kids, it’s challenging to get out of the house in a timely fashion), I just pulled onto the beach and all of their stuff was right there in the back of the car. There were years when the kids napped in the car, windows wide open. There were years when the kids climbed on the car (I had Jeeps; they were rugged vehicles). There were years when my kids climbed on my friends’ cars (even better). Because you can drive onto it, Fortieth Pole is particularly good for evening beach barbecues with kids—the water is calm and warm, and you’ll have a magnificent view of the sunset. Smith’s Point is hands down my favorite beach because you can access both the waves of the ocean and the flat water of the sound. There’s also a natural water slide (described in my novel The Perfect Couple). Smith’s Point is open only during certain weeks of the summer, depending on the nesting of the endangered piping plover.
As Lizbet says in this novel, Great Point is Nantucket’s ultimate destination. Great Point Light sits at the tippy-top of the long arm of sand that juts into the water to the north. Great Point is part of a nature preserve (hence the hefty sticker price for your vehicle) run by the Trustees of Reservations. It’s a wild, windswept landscape with the ocean on your right and the harbor on your left as you drive out. There are almost always seals. There are sometimes sharks—you’ve been warned! It is “far away” (it takes nearly forty-five minutes to get there from town), but it’s a Nantucket experience you’ll never forget. There is a guardhouse just before the Wauwinet Inn where you purchase your sticker. On your way home, you can pop into the Wauwinet’s super-cute tiny bar for a drink. (Topper’s, the restaurant, is exquisite but expensive, even by Nantucket standards.)
There are some people who think driving on a beach is an abomination. I respect that—and so does Nantucket. Most beaches do not allow cars. Here are some of my favorite beaches that you cannot drive on. North shore beaches front Nantucket Sound and have calm water without large waves. South shore beaches are ocean beaches and normally have waves. There are sometimes rip currents. Please be careful!
North Shore
Jetties Beach is walkable from town and has the added attraction of the Sand Bar, which I’ll discuss in the restaurant section. Steps Beach has, quite possibly, the most beautiful approach of any beach in the world. You descend forty-three steps into sand dunes covered by rosa rugosa, which in the height of summer blooms with pink and white flowers. Dionis Beach is where Richie is found asleep in his car in this novel. In the book, I say that Dionis has public showers—this is fiction. It does not have showers. It does, however, have bathrooms.
South Shore
Surfside Beach was my beach of choice for my first three summers. In fact, I don’t think I went anywhere else. It’s wide. There’s plenty of space. It also has the Surfside Beach Shack. It’s not an exaggeration to say that if I could, I would eat lunch at the Surfside Shack every day of the summer, and so would my kids. The food is delicious. I get the “krabby patty” (crab, shrimp, and scallop patty) with avocado, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and their delicious sauce. My daughter gets acai bowls. The boys get the grilled chicken sandwich or burgers. It falls into my “can’t miss” category if you’re staying on Nantucket more than one day during the summer. However, there is often a line—you’ve been warned!
Nobadeer Beach: Party central. Are you twenty-five or younger? Go here. There is a walk-on section and a drive-on section. Both are filled with beautiful young people living their best lives. If you’re walking on, please do not park on the road—you will get a ticket.
Cisco: Do you surf or like to watch other people surf? Go here. The beach is much narrower than at Surfside and Nobadeer and parking is often an issue.
None of these is my favorite. I have thought long and hard and decided not to name my preferred south shore beach, because what I love about it is it’s not popular and never very crowded except by locals and summer residents. Because I feel guilty for holding back, I will say that if you want a terrific not-crowded beach, drive out to Miacomet Golf Course, but just before you reach the clubhouse, take a right onto the dirt road that leads past the big antenna. The road is what I have called in my books “the no-name road,” and the beach is what I call Antenna Beach. There is a cottage to the left of the entrance to this beach that was the inspiration for Mallory’s cottage in 28 Summers.
What Is There to Do If I Don’t Like the Beach?
Yes, I do realize there are people who don’t like the beach. (I am merely grateful you like beach novels!)
Do you like to shop?
If the answer is yes, you’re in luck! Unlike Martha’s Vineyard, which has seven towns, Nantucket has only one town, called “town.” (Locals say, “I’m going to town” or “I saw Elin in town.”) Nantucket’s central business district is four square blocks, chock-full of great shopping, all of it adjacent to the ferry docks. It’s therefore possible to get off the ferry, shop, get something to eat, and get back on the ferry—and although you will not have seen nearly enough of the island, you also won’t be disappointed. Town is just that great.
There are too many shops for me to mention, so I’m giving you only my very favorites.
Mitchell’s Book Corner and Nantucket Bookworks: Hmm…why did I start with these? Well, because I believe independent bookstores are the cornerstones of civilization. Nantucket is lucky enough to have not one independent bookstore but two, and they’re owned by the same person, my cherished friend Wendy Hudson. The good news about Wendy owning both stores is that instead of being competitors, they complement each other. Mitchell’s is located at 54 Main Street and has two floors of books, including an outstanding selection of Nantucket-based books. From mid-June until mid-September I do a book signing outside Mitchell’s every Wednesday at 11:00 a.m. for one hour. Mitchell’s hosts signings all year round, including frequent signings with my fellow local authors Nancy Thayer and Nathaniel Philbrick. Website: Nantucketbookpartners.com; Instagram: @nantucketbooks.
Nantucket Bookworks can be found at 25 Broad Street. It’s small and cozy and has an outstanding children’s book section, a huge selection of toys, games, gifts, and chocolate!