Chapter 7
FUN AND GAMES AT HOME
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71. AM I BORING MY DOG?
If you’re talking about having caught your dog yawning, the answer is “I couldn’t say.” As I mentioned in Chapter 6, yawning is often a sign of stress, so your dog might be trying to hint that he needs some space.
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Or not. My friend Clare’s dog, Archie, is a master of the fake yawn. Archie knows that barking is frowned upon as an attention-getter, but opening his mouth wide and making noises while pretend-yawning always makes Clare laugh and then do his bidding.
And it’s possible your dog is sleepy.
But just because his yawns don’t reflect on your conversational skills, that doesn’t mean you’re not boring your dog. Most dogs, and especially purebreds, are hard-wired to perform jobs like guarding, herding, and retrieving.68 It was their “will work for food” ethic that got us to share our dinners—and our shelters—with them in the first place. If they’re not allowed to do the work they’re suited for, they get antsy. Which is true of humans, too.
Luckily for them, however, dogs don’t have to worry about taking dead-end jobs to pay the bills. Give them enough—and suitable—exercise,69 and they’ll embrace the freeloading lifestyle.
But meaningful work or a facsimile thereof isn’t the only thing dogs need to stave off boredom. If anything, dogs are more social than we are, and hate being left alone for long periods of time. It doesn’t help that they’re barred from getting library cards and accessing the Internet. See questions 75 and 76 for some absentee entertainment suggestions.
72. HOW MUCH EXERCISE IS ENOUGH FOR MY DOG?
It depends. The goal is to tire your dog out or at least take the edge off her restlessness, as well as keep her trim and fit. Some breeds have far more energy than others—you checked before you got your dog, right?70—and all have different exercise needs at different life stages. Ask your vet about the best fitness regimen for your dog.
Your pooch will also let you know, one way or the other, if she’s getting enough exercise—perhaps by acting out, or by putting on so much weight that you’ll have to keep loosening the straps on her waist-hugging halter.
She’ll also let you know if she’s getting too much of a work-out. Panting excessively is one sign (be sure to bring along enough water on your outings). Civil disobedience is another. Having decided that a brisk walk we were taking with my friend Kate and her dog, Kukula, was going on a bit too long, Frankie parked his little butt down in a stolid “I prefer not” pose in the middle of the path. Much to my relief—carrying even 11 pounds can be hard after a couple of miles, especially when they’re squirming—Frankie was perfectly fine to walk back on his own four legs. He just wanted to let us know that if we were to proceed any farther, he couldn’t guarantee his continuing participation. I wish I were as good at enforcing my limits.
73. WHAT IF I’M NOT FIT ENOUGH TO EXERCISE MY DOG SUFFICIENTLY?
Few humans are capable of keeping up with large, high-energy dogs. This is where props—everything from Frisbees and treadmills to tennis-ball pitching machines—come in. Again, every dog has different interests and capabilities; some like to fetch, others to swim, still others to run with a dog park pack. You just need to figure out what works with your dog’s drives, social skills—and size. For example, some large dogs may swallow, rather than retrieve, tennis balls.71
Let physics be your friend, too. If you stand or sit at the top of an incline and toss a stick down it, your dog will burn more calories than if you perform the same ritual on a flat surface.
And don’t forget that, in an off-leash area (or with a very long leash), dog hikes and walks are far longer than human walks. A key theorem of dog math is that for every mile you walk, your dog will cover three or four. This includes the constant returns to show you something disgusting she’s picked up or to check that you’re still around and on the move before ambling off again to continue her investigations.
Mental exercise is also essential for most breeds—and you don’t have to be in shape to provide it. All you need is patience, a sense of fun, and intelligence equal to or above that of your dog.72 There are training sessions, for one thing; you might try to teach your dog a new word or trick every day in two or three five-minute sessions. And there are simple games. My friend Jennifer plays hide and seek with her Pit Bull, Beau, and other people I know make their dogs search for treats strategically placed around the house.
And, naturally, you can buy educational toys. In addition to the playthings mentioned in the “Toys” section of question 75, which can safely occupy your dogs while you’re away, toys that challenge your dog’s mind but require supervision include the soft Puzzle Plush playthings made by Kyjen (www.kyjen.com) and the (mostly) wooden toys in the Zoo Active line by Nina Ottosson (www.nina-ottosson.com).
74. SHOULD I GET A SECOND DOG TO KEEP MY DOG COMPANY IF I WORK LONG HOURS?
Only if you want a second dog. Another dog math theorem is that taking care of two dogs requires more than twice the effort of taking care of one, not half. After that, the amount of labor involved increases exponentially, requiring advanced canine algebra to calculate.
And there’s no guarantee that the two dogs will get along, your matchmaking efforts notwithstanding. Even if they seem well suited initially, things change. My friend Barbara’s two dogs were great friends until Lucy got sick and couldn’t play with her pal Halo for a while. After Lucy recovered, Halo declined to resume their relationship, perhaps on the once-snubbed principle. And two dogs in my neighborhood that are left out in their yard all day bark in a cacophony of distress, their misery unmitigated by company.
If you crave canine diversity or want to rescue another dog, more power to you. And your first dog may well be grateful. But if you’re primarily motivated by guilt (always tops on my motivation list), divert the extra money you’d spend on food, vet care, and training to some of the pet entertainment possibilities described in the next two questions.
75. HOW CAN I KEEP MY DOG FROM GETTING BORED AT HOME WHILE I’M AT WORK?
Avoiding boredom is crucial for both your dog’s well-being and yours. Ennui—not to mention existential angst—might make a dog run around the house chewing stuff up, or it might inspire him to try to escape, convinced you’re out there somewhere, ready to entertain him, if only he could find you.
Alternatively, boredom could cause your dog to sleep excessively and mope. Although depression doesn’t cost nearly as much as destruction, it is more heart-wrenching. When you’re not angry at your pup for wrecking the house, you’re open to feeling really, really bad that he’s unhappy.
Give your pooch as much exercise as possible before you leave for the day, and avoid making a big exit scene. If you act as though going to work is no big deal, your dog will often respond in kind.
Some possibilities for keeping your dog happy include the following.
AUDIOVISUALS
Leaving the radio, TV, DVD, or CD player on all day may not be energy efficient but if it cheers up your destructive pup, it will definitely be cost effective.
TV/DVD
Dogs are never asked to take part in Nielson media surveys and, as far as I know, no studies have been conducted to determine canine TV preferences. Nor has cable or network programming been geared toward dogs. Animal Planet would seem an obvious channel choice but many dogs, including Frankie, are simply not interested in the shows.73 Others try to attack the TV to get at the creatures inside. And still others take a moral stand, preferring only commercial-free broadcasting.
No worries. Several DVDs have been geared toward your pup’s viewing pleasure. They include While You Are Gone, compiled by Bradley Joseph,74 featuring deer, ducks, geese, and wolves. It’s well reviewed on its distributor’s site, Amazon.com. Doggy Daycare DVD, put out by Off the Wall Entertainment (O.T.W.E.; www.otwe.biz), highlights the Puppy Cup, a soccer match between two teams of Golden Retrievers. Go Dog’s Dog Sitter II—the sequel, of course, to the ever-popular Dog Sitter—includes some obedience training clips and sequences of dogs doing incredible tricks to inspire (or shame) your pup.
CDs
Based on observations at many animal shelters and clinics, music does indeed soothe the savage breast. What kind? According to Susan Wagner, a veterinary neurologist, dogs like slow tempos and not a lot of complexity in their compositions. Because they hear at such high frequencies, they also prefer quiet sounds, so Through a Dog’s Ear (www.throughadogsear.com), the CD that Wagner produced and sells in conjunction with her book on the topic, should be played at a low volume. Of course, no one would blast Canine Lullabies (www.caninelullabies.com), created by former songwriter and record producer Terry Woodford, who discovered that what was effective for calming human babies also worked on the furry variety. The reverse holds true, too, according to assertions on Amazon that Dog Gone Classical Music: Mozart makes babies mellow out. Also favorably reviewed are the Music Dogs Love: While You Are Gone CD, a companion to the DVD (see the previous section); and Music My Pet, a classical mix created by Tom Nazziola, the principal performer on Baby Einstein CDs and DVDs.
Radio
I’m not sure that DogCat Radio (www.dogcatradio.com),75 a Los Angeles-based Internet streaming station for pets and their owners, can be considered soothing. The play list ranges from disco to Top 40 and Spanish pop, and there’s a lot of pet-oriented chat that’s useful to owners but not aimed at calming their four-legged charges. That said, if your pup likes an upbeat sound, leave your computer tuned in to the station.
When in doubt, leave your dog tuned in to your local long-hair music station. And lay off the heavy metal. In studies of audio preferences, many hounds howled in protest when they were subjected to it.
TOYS
Not all toys that can keep dogs occupied for long periods76 are suited to serve as distractions while you’re away. Especially dangerous are those with parts that can be swallowed, from rawhides to toys with squeakers, and anything that can shred or splinter.
The safest picks as doggie distractions (all available in virtual and real pet emporia) include the following toys.
Nonedible chew toys
These toys should be made from material durable enough to stand up to long periods of your dog’s attempts to ingest them and be large enough that your dog can’t swallow them whole. Popular brands include Dogzilla, Nylabone, Hurley, and Huck. Some have nontoxic flavorings and smells that make them appealing. Be sure to supervise your dog with these products before leaving her alone with them. Some dogs are super-chewers, capable of decimating most products placed in front of them, and you need to know that in advance.
Interactive treat toys
These take the will-work-for-food drive down to its most basic level. The best known—and still tops in its category—are those made by Kong, hard rubber cones that can be stuffed with anything from peanut butter to soaked kibble; many people put half of their dog’s morning meal in them. Geared toward dog size, age, and chewing strength, Kongs and Kongstyle toys require some coordination—your dog has to hold on to them to get at the food—and lots of tongue agility, but not Einsteinian intellect.
More challenging are toys like the Buster Cube and other “busy-boxes,” designed so that the treats inside come out of the openings when your dog pokes, paws, and noses them at the right angle. You can adjust their difficulty level when your dog progresses (or regresses). That’s true, too, of the Busy Buddy line made by Premier,77 which includes the Twist ‘n’ Treat, a spaceship-style toy that Frankie likes (and has offered to endorse, if the price is right).
76. AUDIOVISUALS AND TOYS DON’T KEEP MY DOG HAPPY. WHAT ELSE CAN I DO FOR HIM WHILE I’M AWAY?
When in-home entertainment isn’t entertaining enough for your restless pup, it’s time to consider outsourcing his diversion. Dog walkers and doggie daycare are the top options, but play dates and other informal exchanges through networks of local dog owners are getting increasingly popular, too.
Keep in mind that you need to screen potential candidates for dog care as thoroughly as you would candidates for child or elder care—perhaps more thoroughly, because licenses aren’t required for canine caregivers in most states and there’s little official oversight. Any professional you’re thinking of leaving your pup with must love dogs, yes, but they must also know how to handle them—and how to conduct a business. Among other things, that means being bonded and insured and providing you with a service contract.
Nor is every dog a good candidate for dog walking or daycare—and I’m not just talking about bullies who don’t play well with others. Frankie, for example, refuses to walk anywhere with strangers (a better attribute in a child than it is in a dog). Hanging out with unknown dogs away from home? Not my shy guy.
If you think your dog could benefit, start your search by asking people you regularly see with well-behaved charges at the dog park, dog path, or around the neighborhood. Check with your vet, groomer, pet supply stores, and local shelters. Websites such as Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) are good resources, too. And then do your own screening, based on the criteria outlined in the following sections.
DOG WALKER
Dog walkers—who will often have an associated pet sitting business—typically come to your house once a day and take your dog out for 15 minutes to an hour. Usually it’s for a group stroll, but some—with your permission—take dogs to a park (see question 78). They operate differently in compact cities than they do in more spread-out towns or suburbs. Dog walkers in Manhattan, for example, stroll from building to building to pick up and drop off dogs. Here in Tucson they have to drive to collect their walkees, so the number of dogs is limited by the size of the vehicle—and the ability of the dog walker to keep them calm while in transit.
In Manhattan, prices for dog walking might range from $14 per dog for a quick 15-minute piddle to $28 for one hour of exercise; in Tucson, on average, it’s $25 for 40 minutes for up to two dogs in the same family; shorter stints are rare.
Some things to think about when considering a dog walker:
Affinity for the work
Does this person seem to like dogs in general and yours in particular, or do you get the sense she’s just looking to make a quick buck with clients who can’t tattle if she goofs off? In turn, does your usually friendly dog cozy up to her—or slink off? Dogs are generally excellent judges of character.
Credentials
American Red Cross Certification in pet first aid and CPR are definite pluses, as is membership in a professional pet sitter’s organization. Having training credentials (see Chapter 6) is also an asset.
References
Although these are always important to check, it’s particularly crucial for a person who will be entering your home. There’s a certain irony to the fact that dog walkers are usually most popular in backyard-challenged urban areas, where trust is not at a premium. It’s not unreasonable for you to ask where your dog walker lives to even the playing field. Or to mention that you know someone who’s connected.
General philosophy and dog knowledge
Ask what your potential walker would do if your dog misbehaves. If he advocates an alpha roll—or a Tootsie Roll—reconsider.
Logistic specifics
Will your dog be staying on a leash the entire time? Will the route involve crossing lots of city streets or busy roads? How many other dogs will be coming along? What do you do with the rest of the group when you’re picking a dog up at an apartment building?78 The responses should help you figure out if your dog’s personality and the dog walker’s plans are in synch with each other, and if you feel comfortable about your dog’s safety.
Formalities
A professional should have you fill out a form with your emergency numbers (including that of your vet); provide you with his emergency contact information; ask you to confirm in writing that your dog has had all the required shots and identification/registration (in case she’s an escape artist), and has no history of serious aggression; and provide you with a contract that specifies which services will be rendered and when—and how much you’ll pay for them.
Before you sign on, go for a test walk (with payment of course): just you, your dog, and the dog walker. See how your pup—and any poop she might produce—is handled. If your dog walker doesn’t scoop, she’s either not paying attention to your dog or she’s a bad global citizen.
DAYCARE
Forget sterile rooms with cramped cages. Today’s doggie daycare (a.k.a. doggie day camp) is likely to resemble nursery school more than it does a kennel, replete with organized play-, nap-, and snack periods and even webcams that let you see what your pup is up to. Organized activities often abound, with training filling in for coloring. Indeed, some doggie daycare centers outshine the kiddie versions; the latter are unlikely to have hairdressers or doctors on site.
In spite of all these extras, daycare might be more cost effective than a dog walking service. For one thing, you don’t have to—in fact shouldn’t—send your dog every day. Limiting daycare to two or three times a week keeps your dog from getting overstimulated and from considering the experience mundane. And rates are not generally outrageous. A spot check of upscale facilities around the country showed costs ranging from $25 for a half day for dogs weighing under 25 pounds in Scottsdale to $55 for a full day for plus size pups (more than 85 pounds) in Manhattan. Membership or monthly passes lower the rates even more.
How to find a good play center? The same way as you find dog walkers, many of whom may be affiliated with daycare centers. In some major metropolitan areas, daycare/boarding facilities are rated online, similar to hotels and restaurants.
You should also have the same concerns, from treatment philosophy to poop-scooping. Ask questions in advance, and then observe the proceedings without your dog. If possible, arrange to go in during a play period, so you can see how the group is handled.
The service contract that requires you to provide detailed information, including emergency contacts and authorization for emergency treatment, is even more crucial. Your dog, of course, has been neutered or spayed and has had all the required vaccinations, but if the center doesn’t insist on verification, it means they’re not confirming the data on all the other, less perfect, dogs.
Staff
Again, think dog walkers, multiplied: expect, at a minimum, to find people who like and know how to handle dogs. They should be able to gauge when dogs need a rest, and when they need to be separated from each other—and how to accomplish that. Knowledge of training is a bonus. If there’s no vet on staff—some places have them—there should be one on call.
Staff quantity is also important. There shouldn’t be more than 10 dogs per staff person (and more than 35 to 40 dogs, total, at a facility is pushing it).
Environment
Is there enough room—and is it well divided, so that dogs have separate areas for play and rest? If there are crates, are they large enough for comfort? Some people insist on no-crate facilities but if your dog is used to being crated, there’s nothing wrong with providing him with an escape he’s used to. That said, you’d want a doggie cam—or spot visit—to prove that your dog is not caged all day.
Do the floors have no-skid rubber surfaces? Concrete can be bad for footpads and painful for arthritic dogs or pups with hip problems.
Are nontoxic cleaners used? Of course you don’t want a place to smell bad, but the (cleaning) solution can be worse than the problem. Chlorine bleach-based products produce toxic fumes when mixed with the ammonia in urine. A daycare should know the basics of pet chemistry; otherwise, who knows what else they don’t know?
Is the daycare well ventilated and temperature controlled? Your dog should have plenty of air, and not be subjected to extremes of either heat or cold. If you wouldn’t be comfortable there, your dog probably wouldn’t be either.
If there’s a yard that the dogs play in, is it secure? Can your escape artist manage to scale the fence or dig under it?
Interaction with other dogs
How often will the dogs be together? Too much playtime can be exhausting; too little may mean too little exercise. Are the activities organized or carefully supervised, or are there doggie free-for-alls? Are dogs grouped by size and activity level (hyper versus low key) when they play? Again, groups should be small enough to allow good staff supervision.
How does the staff handle introducing new dogs? You should expect your dog to be presented to each dog individually, rather than just being thrown into the pack. Are all collars removed? During rough play, dogs can get entangled, and I don’t mean romantically. (Of course, romantic entanglement would be undesirable, too, which is why pups that are not spayed or neutered are banned from daycare.)
Amenities
Some places offer food (at an extra cost), but it’s better to provide your own; dogs don’t do well with diet changes. Still, if another dog steals your pooch’s dinner, it’s good to know he won’t go hungry. As I noted before, some places offer everything from training to grooming. If the price is right—and the other dogs using the services look attractive and are polite—why not take advantage of these one-stop options?
NETWORKING
If you can’t afford either dog walking or daycare—or prefer something less formal—consider arranging play dates or care exchanges through such online networks as dogster.com or pawspot.com.
It’s like Internet dating, only with less stress about whether you’ll be considered attractive and more concern about getting bitten (depending on the sites you ordinarily frequent, of course; you may be vampire oriented). Get to know the other owner in a public place and make sure your dogs get along before going to someone else’s home or inviting someone into yours.
There are no guarantees, but there are none in professional care either. And it may be the start of a beautiful doggie friendship.
77. WHAT ORGANIZED ACTIVITIES ARE AVAILABLE FOR ME TO DO WITH MY DOG?
What activities aren’t available is the better question. I was amazed—and exhausted just contemplating—how many things there are to do with dogs in a group, and how many titles you (collectively) can aspire to. Nor are the games just for purebreds, as they were in the past; many now have versions geared to the doggie hoi polloi. The only prerequisite: your dog has to be trained to follow instructions.
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For the full range of possibilities, including carting, hunting, Schutzhund (which is as scary as it sounds), sheepherding, skijoring, tracking, and water sports (though not synchronized swimming), see DogPlay (www.dogplay.com). To find events in your area, check the American Kennel Club (AKC; www.akc.org) event search option or Google the name of your city and the activity you’re interested in. Many pet stores post events, too.
The following are the five most popular sports and are open to the greatest number of dogs.
AGILITY
Started in the late 1970s in London, and modeled on horse show jumping, agility has come to mean many things to many dog people—all of whom agree it’s a blast. Essentially, you direct your dog through an obstacle course—which almost always involves seesaws, tables, poles, tires, and lots of weaving around and jumping—and are judged on both time and accuracy.
COMPETITIVE OBEDIENCE
Sure your dog can sit and stay in the privacy of your own home, but can she—and you—perform under pressure? Various levels of command conformity range from the Novice Long Sit (no whining permitted) to Advanced Scent Discrimination, where your dog must identify leather and metal items that you’ve touched. Who knew there were arenas in which strong body odor was a plus?
CANINE FREESTYLE (A.K.A. MUSICAL FREESTYLE)
If Frankie was more coordinated,79 this is the competition I’d most want to try. Nicknamed “dancing with dogs,” it sets obedience to music, with routines that participants create. Costumes may or may not be part of the proceedings.
FLYING DISC
You know your dog’s a natural, so why just toss a Frisbee around the park when you can impress far more people with his prowess? Events include “toss and fetch” (a.k.a. “mini-distance” or “throw and catch”), a straightforward skill demonstration using a single disc; and “dynamic freestyle,” the Cirque du Soleil of the sport, involving short routines to music with multiple discs. Expect lots of spinning, leaping, and other physical pyrotechnics.
FLYBALL
If both you and your dog play well with others, this relay-style agility competition with hurdles and tennis balls may be your sport. If no pooch misses a hurdle or drops a tennis ball, the team that completes the course with the fastest time wins.
Also popular with mixed breeds are Earthdog, which simulates tunneling for simulated rodents; Strong Dog, similar to Earthdog, but the faux rodents have to be brought back to the handler; and Lure Coursing, chasing something fast-moving across a real, not simulated, field. See the National All-Breed Sporting Association (NABSA; www.go-k9sport.org) for details on these games.
78. I’VE NEVER BEEN TO A DOG PARK. ARE THERE RULES?
Definitely; both stated and implicit. The former are usually posted and easy to follow (though not everyone does), but observing the latter is equally important if you want to fit in with the regulars. Dog parks are similar to playgrounds, with a bit more snarling and public peeing but no less snobbery and gossip.
First, a definition: A dog park—sometimes called a dog run—is an enclosed area set aside for dogs to play together off leash. Some are spacious enough to offer separate areas for big and small dogs; others are parking lot size. Some are verdant and lush; others have dirt for décor. Picnic benches and tables may be provided; sometimes it’s BYO folding chairs. Water and baggies for cleanups are usually available.
Not all dogs (or owners) are good candidates for dog parks. Again, shyness and aggressiveness are equally problematic. I took Frankie to a dog park about a month after I got him, without any preparation or training. He spent the entire time trying to jump into my lap or attach himself to my leg.
Frankie never did warm up to the dog park, which probably had more to do with occurrences in his mysterious past than with my foolish full-immersion introduction to it. Still, if I had a do-over, I would have come to the park during off hours—very early or following the after-work rush—when fewer dogs were around, and try to ease him into a new and stressful situation.
No matter how friendly your dog, some training—at minimum, obedience to a recall—is essential. There are bound to be renegades—their owners would say free spirits—at any dog park, but it takes two to tangle. Before you go, observe and have your pup engage in play, so you get a sense of what falls within the realm of normal. As per Chapter 6, it’s important to know the basics of Doglish, especially your pup’s dialect, so you can read body language effectively.
Finally, on the first visit, quit while you’re ahead, i.e., while your dog is enjoying herself. Stay no more than 15 or 20 minutes. Your dog will look forward to returning if she’s tantalized, not overtired. And if she forgets all her training, and doesn’t want to come to you when you’re ready to go home, cut her some slack. This is a new experience, and if she doesn’t want to leave, it’s been a successful one.
When you go:
UNLEASH YOUR DOG AS SOON AS YOU’RE IN THE AREA WHERE IT’S PERMITTED, AND TAKE OFF HER COLLAR.
If your dog is tethered while others are running free, she’ll be vulnerable, which is a prelude to a scuffle—as is the fact that she’s likely to be protective of you if you’re literally attached to her.
As I noted in the earlier daycare center section, collars can be dangerous during rough play. If you’re in a secured area, there’s no reason to leave one on. If you don’t recognize your pup without his tags, you shouldn’t be taking him out of the house.
DON’T BRING TREATS.
It’s usually verboten, anyway, because all the dogs will sniff them out—and you don’t want to be beset by the hungry hordes. And food is not only a source of dissent among canine contenders; bringing it will also annoy other owners whose dogs may be on a diet. If you do have treats and there’s a particularly insistent pup, always ask the owner if it’s okay to give her something. That’ll go a long way toward smoothing any fur you’ve ruffled.
Water can be a source of strife, too, if it’s not provided by the park. In that case, it may be a good idea to restrict drinking to before and after your park visit.
DON’T BRING TOYS THAT YOU DON’T WANT TO LOSE.
It’s hard to keep track of pooch playthings under the best of circumstances, and with large numbers of dogs in motion … forget it. You definitely don’t want to bring along anything your dog is protective of and will fight to defend. Or that you’ll fight to defend. Maybe it’s a guy thing, but I’ve noticed that some men seem bound and determined to bring home their dog’s tennis ball, no matter how old and dirty, rather than one belonging to someone else’s pup.
BE VIGILANT BUT DON’T HOVER.
It’s important to keep an eye on your dog while you’re in the park, but there’s no point bringing him there if you’re not going to let him have fun. Helicopter owners annoy both dogs and humans.
TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR DOG’S BEHAVIOR.
If your dog is bullying other dogs, it’s up to you to get him under control—and to not bring him back until he’s learned better park manners (that doesn’t include talking in his indoor voice; raucous barking is what dog parks are all about).
Ideally, you’ll be aware when a fight is about to break out and command your dog to return to you and/or create a distraction. But if there is a fracas and it involves your charge, you—and the other owner—need to try to disentangle the dogs. Some possibilities for accomplishing that include making a loud noise such as clapping, throwing water at their heads, spraying them with citronella, or tossing a ball at their butts. For larger dogs, some experts suggest that each owner pull on the dog’s back legs. Never grab a collar or otherwise put your hand near a dog’s head; getting close to the teeth of an upset pup is a sure ticket to bite land.
The worst part of a dogfight may be the aftermath, when the humans get into the act. Try to stay calm, even—especially—if the fight was clearly the other dog’s fault, and your dog is injured. Garnering sympathy for the plight of your poor pup, both on the part of the offending party and among witnesses, is more likely to get your vet bill paid than making yourself obnoxious. Don’t forget to gather names and contact information. 80 In most cases, it’s hard to assign blame, so drop the defensiveness, own up to your dog’s role, and split any costs.
CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG.
If I seem obsessed with feces, it’s not because I’m a clean freak or a coprophiliac. It’s just that we, the collective dog community, have to put our best feet forward because if other people put their feet forward into something stinky, they’ll blame the dogs, and try to get dog-friendly facilities shut down.